What do you need to start raising goats? Here are the basics of raising goats.
Ample pasture, preferably 1-2 acres per goat is recommended for grazing. Some people like to supplement with a bit of special goat grain available at your local feed store. A good quality hay should be on hand during the winter, and to supplement feeding during dry summer months.
Fresh water is essential for a healthy goat. A good way to provide water is simply a bucket, refilled each day; or a trough, or even an automatic water station. An automatic water station is great if you are worried about dirty water and constant supply.
Housing is the next essential. Again, this is according to personal preference and budget. A good goat house for raising goats can be as simple as a lean-to shelter or a large barn with feed and hay rooms and stalls.
Mineral and or salt lick blocks are recommended by many goat owners for overall health. Look for the specialty recipes for goats. When placing a mineral or salt block, try to place it in the goat shelter and on a block of wood or something similar so that it will stay dry. You don't want your salt dissolving into the ground!
Do not skimp on fencing! Although being the most expensive aspect of raising goats, you will want it to last as long as possible and still be effective. The recommended fencing is 4' high, red-top woven wire with 12" spacing. When installing, be sure to stretch the bottom wire to run directly in contact with the ground for the most effective barrier.
With the right equipment and care, raising goats can and should be a pleasure for you, your friends and of course, the goats, for many years.
Wednesday, August 6, 2008
all about bloat
There are generally two types of bloat Dry bloat is the accumulation of excess free gas in the rumen often caused by overeating of grain. Frothy (or foamy) bloat is where the contents of the rumen emulsify, becoming foamy with the consistency of whipped egg whites. Gas is trapped in the foam. This form of bloat can be caused by over-consumption of lush pasture or rich legume hay.
The "signs" of bloat are:
1. Rumen extended and tight (the rumen -- the first stomach which is involved in the cud regurgitation and storage processes -- is located on the left side of the goat's abdomen)
2. Off feed
3. Standing around
4. Head down
5. Depressed looking
6. Not belching -- if you'll listen, goats belch quite a bit
7. Not chewing cud
8. Normal rumen sounds absent (gurgling gastric sounds)
9. Grinding teeth
Late stages of bloat signs:
1. Goat in extreme distress
2. Loud crying
3. Gasping for Air
4. Darkened (blue) tongue
5. Goat is down
Why does bloat kill and kill quickly?
The rumen expands to the point that it compresses the abdominal blood vessels, heart, and lungs. The rumen is like a fermentation vat -- it naturally produces gas -- too much gas produced too quickly can compress the esophagus preventing normal belching. Death typically occurs from respiratory failure.
What treatments are appropriate for bloat?
In the early stages, massaging, walking, drenching with mineral oil (1 to 2 cups), and removal of grain feeds may avert disaster.
In the late stages, the use of a stomach tube, proloxalene, and massaging to help reduce gas.
In the desperate stages, puncturing the rumen through the skin in the center of the usually hollowed out area 3 to 5 inches behind the last rib (depending on the goat). The instrument used is called a trocar which accomplishes the puncture and allows for gas to escape. This is a last hope medical procedure when all else has failed. I've never done this one, but my vet did it on one of my kids last year. Unfortunately, she died a few moments after the puncture. In the absence of a trocar, a sharp instrument can be used and a tube inserted -- puncturing the hide and rumen is harder than you'd think.
In some of the material I've read, goats who've had their rumens punctured have a high risk of infection and may never fully recover to what we'd consider a "thrifty and productive" status in the herd.
(It would seem logical that) an animal who's had a very high fever (and/or is treated with antibiotics) is more susceptible to bloat due to the loss of healthy bacteria in their rumen. That's why we always use something like Probios following fevers or the administration of strong antibiotics. Probios is a healthy paste of "good" bacteria and other ingredients that help stabilize the digestive process.
Disclaimer: Having written this, I want to make sure that the readers know that I am a minister, not a vet. When in doubt, call your vet. While experience is a great teacher, I am certainly no expert.
The "signs" of bloat are:
1. Rumen extended and tight (the rumen -- the first stomach which is involved in the cud regurgitation and storage processes -- is located on the left side of the goat's abdomen)
2. Off feed
3. Standing around
4. Head down
5. Depressed looking
6. Not belching -- if you'll listen, goats belch quite a bit
7. Not chewing cud
8. Normal rumen sounds absent (gurgling gastric sounds)
9. Grinding teeth
Late stages of bloat signs:
1. Goat in extreme distress
2. Loud crying
3. Gasping for Air
4. Darkened (blue) tongue
5. Goat is down
Why does bloat kill and kill quickly?
The rumen expands to the point that it compresses the abdominal blood vessels, heart, and lungs. The rumen is like a fermentation vat -- it naturally produces gas -- too much gas produced too quickly can compress the esophagus preventing normal belching. Death typically occurs from respiratory failure.
What treatments are appropriate for bloat?
In the early stages, massaging, walking, drenching with mineral oil (1 to 2 cups), and removal of grain feeds may avert disaster.
In the late stages, the use of a stomach tube, proloxalene, and massaging to help reduce gas.
In the desperate stages, puncturing the rumen through the skin in the center of the usually hollowed out area 3 to 5 inches behind the last rib (depending on the goat). The instrument used is called a trocar which accomplishes the puncture and allows for gas to escape. This is a last hope medical procedure when all else has failed. I've never done this one, but my vet did it on one of my kids last year. Unfortunately, she died a few moments after the puncture. In the absence of a trocar, a sharp instrument can be used and a tube inserted -- puncturing the hide and rumen is harder than you'd think.
In some of the material I've read, goats who've had their rumens punctured have a high risk of infection and may never fully recover to what we'd consider a "thrifty and productive" status in the herd.
(It would seem logical that) an animal who's had a very high fever (and/or is treated with antibiotics) is more susceptible to bloat due to the loss of healthy bacteria in their rumen. That's why we always use something like Probios following fevers or the administration of strong antibiotics. Probios is a healthy paste of "good" bacteria and other ingredients that help stabilize the digestive process.
Disclaimer: Having written this, I want to make sure that the readers know that I am a minister, not a vet. When in doubt, call your vet. While experience is a great teacher, I am certainly no expert.
Urinary Stones
Treatment For Urinary Stones
If the blockage is at the urethral process, then it can be snipped off. If urine is voided after this "surgery" then the prognosis, while not good, has some hope. Oral therapy with ammonium chloride which dissolves the remaining stones is highly recommended. If the blockage is higher, then there are two options, both with major problems. A perineal urethrostomy, in which the penis is exposed and cut in its location below the rectum and the urethra exposed, often results in failure if the blockage is higher. In addition, even if immediately successful, it is a salvage procedure as the hole heals up in a few weeks and the goat re-blocks. Therefore it is not a suitable option for breeding bucks or pets. The second option is very expensive and few practitioners will undertake the surgery. The abdomen is opened and the bladder opened. A catheter is introduced from the bladder into the urethra and the stones flushed down the penis. If successful, all stones are removed and the buck is still capable of breeding. Often the stones are firmly lodged, there is tissue damage from the stones and recovery is very prolonged. Only valuable bucks or valued pets are recommended for this option.
If the blockage is at the urethral process, then it can be snipped off. If urine is voided after this "surgery" then the prognosis, while not good, has some hope. Oral therapy with ammonium chloride which dissolves the remaining stones is highly recommended. If the blockage is higher, then there are two options, both with major problems. A perineal urethrostomy, in which the penis is exposed and cut in its location below the rectum and the urethra exposed, often results in failure if the blockage is higher. In addition, even if immediately successful, it is a salvage procedure as the hole heals up in a few weeks and the goat re-blocks. Therefore it is not a suitable option for breeding bucks or pets. The second option is very expensive and few practitioners will undertake the surgery. The abdomen is opened and the bladder opened. A catheter is introduced from the bladder into the urethra and the stones flushed down the penis. If successful, all stones are removed and the buck is still capable of breeding. Often the stones are firmly lodged, there is tissue damage from the stones and recovery is very prolonged. Only valuable bucks or valued pets are recommended for this option.
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